How to Use a Spore Print | Agar, Liquid Culture & Grain Guide
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The complete guide to turning a single spore print into fully colonised grain spawn -- with a shopping list of everything you need.
You have got a spore print in your hands -- now what?
You are ready to move beyond grow kits and take full control of your cultivation. Working with spore prints lets you germinate spores, isolate strong genetics, create liquid culture, and colonise your own grain spawn -- all from a single print that can last years.
This guide walks you through the entire process, step by step, and shows you exactly which supplies you need.
Why start with a spore print?
A spore print is a collection of millions of microscopic spores deposited onto aluminium foil or between two glass plates, from a mature mushroom cap. It contains all the genetic material needed to grow new mushrooms.
Compared to spore syringes or spore vials, a spore print gives you maximum versatility:
Our
are laboratory-quality, prepared from fresh specimens, and available in 15+ strains including Golden Teacher, B+, McKennaii, Mazatapec, and many more.
The 4-stage roadmap
Think of the process as four stages, each building on the previous one:
Let us walk through each stage and everything you need along the way.
Stage 1: From Spore Print to Agar Plate
This is where it all begins. You transfer a tiny amount of spores onto a nutrient-rich agar plate, where they germinate and grow into visible mycelium within 5 to 7 days.
Supplies needed for Stage 1
| Supply | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Your genetic starting material | |
| Container for your agar plates | |
+ |
Nutrient medium for mycelium |
| Scraping spores from the print | |
| Alternative tool for spore transfer | |
| Sealing plates after inoculation | |
| Prevent contamination | |
| Sterilise surfaces, tools, packaging | |
| Reduce airborne contamination | |
| Pressure cooker (15 PSI) | Sterilise agar medium |
Preparing your agar plates
A simple and proven recipe for malt extract agar (MEA):
Mix the ingredients in an Erlenmeyer flask. Sterilise at 15 PSI for 20 to 30 minutes in your pressure cooker, then pour into your sterile petri dishes inside a clean workspace. Let them cool and solidify completely before use.
Pro tip: Work in a still air box (SAB) -- a large transparent plastic tub with two arm holes cut in the side. Spray the inside with 70% isopropyl alcohol before every session. This dramatically reduces contamination risk.
Transferring spores to agar
Prepare your workspace
Wipe down the inside of your SAB and the outside of your spore print packaging with an alcohol prep. Put on sterile gloves and a face mask.
Sterilise your tool
Flame-sterilise your scalpel or inoculation loop until glowing red, then cool it by briefly touching it to the agar surface at the very edge of the plate.
Scrape spores from the print
Gently scrape a tiny amount of spores from the foil. You need far less than you think. A barely visible dusting is more than enough for one plate.
Inoculate the plate
Streak the spores across the agar surface in a zig-zag pattern. This spreads individual spores across the plate for better germination.
Seal and label
Wrap the plate with Parafilm to seal it. Label with the strain name and today's date using a marker.
Incubate
Store the plate at 23 to 27 degrees Celsius in a dark place. Within 3 to 7 days, you should see white, thread-like mycelium spreading across the agar. This is your culture coming to life.
Stage 2: Agar-to-Agar Transfers (Cleaning Your Culture)
A spore print contains millions of spores with diverse genetics, and it may carry trace contaminants from the environment. This is why experienced cultivators perform 2 to 3 agar-to-agar transfers before moving forward.
Each transfer leaves contamination behind and narrows down the genetics toward stronger, faster-colonising mycelium. Think of it as selecting the best performers from a crowd.
How to transfer
Identify the best growth
Look for the healthiest, most vigorous area of mycelium on your plate. Strong, white, rhizomorphic (rope-like) strands are ideal. Avoid any areas near discolouration or contamination.
Cut a wedge
Flame-sterilise your scalpel, let it cool, then cut a small wedge of agar (roughly 1 cm squared) from the leading edge of the healthy mycelium.
Transfer to a fresh plate
Place the wedge mycelium-side down onto the centre of a fresh agar plate. Seal with Parafilm, label, and incubate.
Repeat if needed
Repeat 1 to 2 more times until your plate shows only clean, uniform mycelial growth with no signs of contamination.
Stock up: You will need extra Petri Dishes, Parafilm, and Scalpels for this stage. Buying in bulk saves money.
Stage 3: From Agar to Liquid Culture
Once you have a clean agar culture, you can expand it exponentially by transferring a piece of colonised agar into liquid culture (LC). Liquid culture is a nutrient-rich broth where mycelium grows in suspension. It can then be drawn up into syringes to inoculate multiple grain bags, making it incredibly efficient for scaling your grows.
Option A: Use ready-made liquid culture vials (recommended)
Pre-made, sterile
vials contain a sterilised nutrient solution. Simply transfer a small piece of your clean agar culture into the vial using a sterile scalpel, and shake daily.
Within about one week, you will have a living mycelium culture ready to inject into grain.
Option B: Make your own liquid culture (DIY)
If you prefer making your own, here is a simple recipe:
Ingredients
Equipment
for drawing up culture later
Process
Prepare and sterilise
Mix ingredients, pour into your jars, and sterilise in a pressure cooker at 15 PSI for 30 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
Inoculate
In your SAB, use a sterile scalpel to transfer a small scraping of surface mycelium from your clean agar plate into the liquid. Avoid dropping in too much agar -- just the mycelium.
Incubate and agitate
Seal and store at room temperature. Swirl or shake the jar daily to break up the mycelium and encourage even growth.
Harvest the culture
After 1 to 2 weeks, you will see fluffy mycelial growth throughout the liquid. You can now draw up this culture into a sterile syringe and use it to inoculate multiple grain spawn bags.
If your liquid culture turns cloudy, smells sour, or shows unusual colours, it may be contaminated. Discard it and start over from a fresh agar plate.
Stage 4: Inoculating Grain -- The Final Step Before Fruiting
With your liquid culture (or a clean agar plate), you are ready to colonise grain. Colonised grain becomes your spawn -- the engine that drives colonisation of your bulk fruiting substrate.
Option A: Use sterile spawn bags (easiest)
This is the path of least resistance and the one we highly recommend, especially when starting out. Pre-sterilised spawn bags come with a self-healing injection port and 0.2 micron filter patch, so you never even need to open the bag:
| Product | Size | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 2L / 4L | All-round performance, great for cubensis | |
| 2L / 4L | 30 to 50% faster colonisation, 8000+ inoculation points per kg |
Simply inject 2.5 to 5 cc of your liquid culture through the injection port. Incubate at 20 to 24 degrees Celsius. When you see 7 to 10 cm of mycelial growth, gently knead the bag to spread the colonisation. Once fully white, mix with substrate in a monotub.
Option B: DIY grain preparation with rye berries
For the full hands-on experience, you can prepare your own grain spawn using
Wash and soak
Wash the rye berries thoroughly and soak them overnight (12 to 18 hours).
Drain and dry
Drain completely, then spread the grains out and let them surface-dry until no visible moisture remains.
Load and sterilise
Load into jars or Grow Bags with Micronfilter. Sterilise at 15 PSI for 90 minutes.
Inoculate
Once cooled, inoculate with liquid culture via syringe, or drop in agar wedges cut from your clean plate.
Shake and colonise
Shake the jar or bag when approximately 30% colonised to redistribute the mycelium. Full colonisation takes 2 to 4 weeks.
Your complete shopping list
Here is everything you need in one overview. You likely already have some of these items at home.
| Item | Used in stage |
|---|---|
| Stage 1 | |
| Stage 1, 2 | |
| Stage 1, 2 | |
| Stage 1, 2, 3 | |
| Stage 1 | |
| Stage 3 | |
| Erlenmeyer Flask (wide neck) | Stage 1, 3 |
| All stages | |
| All stages | |
| All stages | |
| Stage 4 | |
| Stage 4 | |
| Stage 4 | |
| Stage 4 |
You will also need a pressure cooker (15 PSI capable) and 70% isopropyl alcohol, both widely available at kitchen and pharmacy stores. A still air box can be made from any large transparent plastic storage box.
Avoid the number one mistake: do not skip agar
We see it all the time: enthusiastic growers try to go directly from spore print to grain, skipping agar entirely. The result? Contamination. Slow, uneven colonisation. Wasted time and materials.
Agar is your quality control step. It lets you:
Skipping agar and inoculating grain directly from a spore print significantly increases your risk of contamination and wasted supplies. Always use agar as your first step.
Your success story starts here
Picture this: a few weeks from now, you open a grain spawn bag to find it fully colonised -- a dense, white network of healthy mycelium that you grew from a single spore print. You mix it into a monotub and within days, tiny pins start pushing through the surface. A week later, you are harvesting your first flush of beautiful mushrooms.
That is the power of learning to work with spore prints. It is the difference between following instructions on a grow kit and truly understanding the life cycle of the organism you are cultivating.
Ready to begin? Browse our Psilocybe cubensis spore prints and pick up the supplies you need to get started.
Happy growing.

February 24, 2026